Denpasar adalah ibu kota Bali (Denpasar is the capital of Bali). The name of the city comes from two Balinese words – den (northern) and pasar (market). Although it’s not high on the radar of most tourists – who opt for the beaches or rice fields in favor of the chaotic streets of the city – it’s well worth a visit. It’s an easy day trip from the beach towns of the south, giving you a chance to get a dose of culture and history on your vacation. Let’s learn a bit about Denpasar – Bali’s capital.

A Brief Introduction

Denpasar from above.

Denpasar became the capital of Bali in 1958, replacing the former capital of Singaraja in the far north. Since then it has grown rapidly over the decades, with a population that’s quickly nearing a million. Here you’ll find many government offices, cultural sights, universities, markets, and tons of choices for food and drink. While it’s far and away the largest city in Bali, it’s more of a cluster of villages than a metropolis. You won’t find any towering skyscrapers here, but you will find a genuine slice of “real Bali.”

Taman Puputan

Monument to the 1906 puputan.

The city is centered around Taman Puputan (Puputan Park). In case you were wondering, puputan is a Balinese term for a ritual suicide. Great name for a park, right? You’ll understand after a short history lesson. In 1906, the raja of Bandung decided that his court would suffer no more under the colonial rule of the Dutch. He decided not to flee or fight, but rather ordered a puputan. As the Dutch approached the city, the prince had his palace burned to the ground. Along with officials, guards, priests, and even women and children, he marched towards the invaders. They stopped, and the raja ordered a priest to plunge his kris (dagger) into his heart. Shortly thereafter, others turned their kris and stabbed themselves. The Dutch opened fire and the pile of bodies grew larger and larger. This tragic event is forever engrained in the mind’s of the Balinese people, and is memorialized here at this park.

Bali Museum

The Bali Museum

On a much lighter note, you can visit the nearby Bali Museum to learn about Balinese culture. It’s not the most spectacular museum, but for only 20,000 Rupiah (about $1.50), you’ll definitely get your money’s worth. There are some great examples of Balinese architecture, as well as numerous artifacts and displays introducing important ceremonies and other aspects of Balinese culture. Guides are available for hire, but you really don’t need one.

Pura Agung Jagatnatha

One of Denpasar’s most important temples.

Next door, you’ll find one of the city’s most important temples. It’s dedicated to the supreme god, Sanghyang Widi. You won’t find crowds of tourists here like you will at temples like Tanah Lot. In fact, you might not find anyone here at all! Should you find the temple to be locked, just wait around – someone will show up and let you in. If you don’t have the proper attire, they’ll provide a sarong for you to wear. Just be sure to leave a donation for the temple. If you should find yourself in town on a new or full moon, there will be large crowds here gathered for the important ceremonies.

Bajra Sandhi Monument

Bajra Sandhi Monument

This grand monument is dedicated to the struggles of the Balinese people throughout history. It’s reminiscent of Borobudur temple on Java, and it follows the architectural principles of the Tri Mandala. Inside you’ll find various dioramas detailing important events in Balinese history. Climb to the top of the spiral staircase for a great view out onto the sprawling park and the city around.

Universities

Udayana University

As the capital city, Denpasar is home to some of Bali’s best universities. If you’re interested in studying Indonesian language or culture, this is the place to be. Every year, the country invites people to participate in the Darmasiswa program to do just that. I had a great experience studying Indonesian at Udayana University and can highly recommend it.

A show at ISI.

Another school that participates in the program is ISI (Institut Seni Indonesia) – the Indonesian Institute of the Arts. Here you can study dance, music, art, or puppetry. Whether you’re a student or not, you can attend performances throughout the year. We saw a fantastic collaboration there between the Japanese drum group Kodo and the Balinese group Suar Agung.

Visa Extensions

Give Denpasar a chance – you might like it!

Chances are you’re going to like Bali so much that you want to stay forever. Sadly, your visa indicates otherwise. If you decide you want to extend your initial 30-day stay for another month, you’ll have to head to the immigration office in Denpasar to do so (or pay an agent triple the amount to do it for you). Rather than gripe about it, take this as a chance to take in some of the aforementioned sights. Don’t worry – the beach will still be there when you get back.