Polish Language Blog

I’m sure a lot of you have been to Kraków, but did you have a chance to explore the undergrounds, Podziemia Rynku?

The market square has always been one of Kraków’s main highlights, with sights such as Mariacki church, the Ratusz (town hall), numerous restaurants with outdoor seating under umbrellas and of course, the Sukiennice (cloth hall). However, in 2005, an archaelogical dig revealed there was even more to the market square than met the eye with many items of historical significance being found just under the squares cobbles around the Sukiennice. It was then decided in 2007 to build and open a museum that would house most of the archarlogical findings, and make them available to the public.

With about 800 years of history on show, the museum tries to blend an old world and modern feel in what is presented. There are a few visual tricks, some hi-tech options and then ‘real’ items to be touched and felt. The entrance is found just at the end of the Sukiennice, and entrance is limited to a maximum of 300 people at one time. This is controlled by musuem staff and some security guards, in order to make sure that the experience can be fully savoured without too many people. The entrance fee is 14 -17zl.

The first sight on entry is a real-life smoke screen with a projector showing Krakowians from the Middle Ages welcoming you to the exhibit. Visitors can put their hands and more through it, as it is only a steam projection. Later there are some water pools showing ripples of people walking by, also using projectors. From there, the exhibits get more ‘real’ as there are paving slabs from the 14th century, rebuilt houses of blacksmiths and goldsmiths, and then some re-created graves and burial grounds, with full skeletons inside. Indeed one of the surprises is when walking around and crossing a glass walkway to see a skeleton sitting in the hollowed space under the glass walkway. The highlight come next in the centre of the space, where a scale model of Kraków from the 15th century is shown. It is very realistic, but it is also the only part of museum visible under natural light, as above it, there is the 4-sided pyramid skylight, which can be seen from above ground on the Rynek.

The second part of the musuem is more of a walking tour, with long passages ways with small nooks and crannies available with small archaelogical treasures found in most of them, including some skulls which had been found, and are estimated to be from soldiers who had died trying to defend Kraków from the Swedish ‘Flood’ in the early 17th century. There are many small artefacts such as necklaces, small knives, spears and so on which would have all been used in Kraków’s market through the ages.

If this sounds interesting, next time you are in Kraków you should definitely reserve a little time to see it!

Do następnego razu… (Till next time…)

If you don’t speak Polish, this doesn’t necessarily mean that a trip to the theatre (teatr) is a waste of time. For one thing, some of the most intriguing theatre these days is performed without the use of those excessive ‘word’ things. Poland has a reputation for weird and wonderful avant-garde theatre and there’s always something unusual on.

On the other hand, Poland has a rich tradition in classic theatre, and nineteenth century figures such as Adam Mickiewicz and Stanisław Wyspianski (himself a great European innovator in his time) have achieved an almost godly stature.

If you’re studying Polish culture, or you’re an expat living in Warsaw, it’s worth bearing in mind that not even James Bond could quote Polish poetry, so a trip to the theatre could improve your Casanova credentials immeasurably.

Although theatre flourished in Poland during the Renaissance, the first significant theatre hall was not raised until 1632. This was created by King Władysław IV at the Royal Castle in Warsaw – the king was a great sucker for Italian opera.

The golden age of Polish Theatre was ushered in by the enlightened King Stanisław August, who opened the country’s first public theatre in Warsaw in 1765. Plays were generally intended to provide an edifying experience, reviving the country from it’s intellectual decline.

Teatr Wielki w Warszawie

Later, in 1825, Warsaw’s first major opera house was founded, the Teatr Wielki (The Grand Theatre) . Although completely rebuilt after the war, it remains the city’s best venue for opera. It’s a huge building and a great place to get acquainted with lesser known classics such as Stanisław Moniuszko’s ‘The Haunted Manor’, which was premiered here in 1865.

Some of Warsaw Theatres:

Ateneum

ul. Juracza 2

Built in 1927, this edifice was originally the home of the League of Professional Cyclists. The theatre’s longstanding director Janusz Warmiński (1952-96) favoured original, modern pieces, and Ateneum maintains a fine reputation in those orbits. Almost all of Poland’s finest stage actors have played here.

Dramatyczny

Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1

Launched in 1949 as the “Theatre of the Home of the Polish Army” this stonker is based in the bombastic Palace of Culture, Stalin’s post-war present to Warsaw. Bertolt Brecht’s remarked on his visit, “What a beautiful alienation effect!” The theatre has seen many famous debuts (actors and playwrights) and it’s still a popular place for modern productions.

Teatr Wielki

pl. Teatralny 1

Founded in 1828, the aptly named Grand Theatre is a destination in itself. Something of a sanctuary of Polish culture during the nineteenth century era of partitions, the theatre had to be completely rebuilt after the Second World War – it had been reduced to little more than rubble during the conflict. In accordance with its original purpose, the theatre performs Polish and international opera – some of the best that you’ll see in Poland. The Teatr Narodowy (National Theatre)-an entirely separate institution – also performs classic plays here, and their branch is housed in the west wing at no.3. The main building also houses an excellent museum of theatre with a host of flamboyant costumes.

Komedia

ul. Słowackiego 19a

Mostly new pieces, and generally comedies, of course, performed by a young cast. Various reactions ­ some like it, some hate it, as is evidenced by their forum. Worth investigating then.

Kwadrat

ul. Czackiego 15/17

Founded in 1975, Kwadrat evolved into a home for comedy and social farce. Besides the best Polish works (usually modern pieces), many English, American and French plays are performed too (in Polish of course!) Their renowned troupe has toured the world.

Nowy

ul. Puławska 37/39

The ‘New’ theatre stages a variety of plays – most of which have a modern spin on them. Everything from classic Polish children’s tales, to the gods of Polish literature to Monty Python – punters either love it or hate it. Eclectic.

Roma

ul. Nowogrodzka 49

Respected musical theatre. Stages all the big musicals, performed by some of Poland’s finest artists. A great place to catch a lavish, lively show – recent hits have included the Polish versions of ‘Cats’, as well as older classics such ‘Grease’. A popular fixture.

If you visited any of these theaters, please let us know how you liked it:)

It is no scecret that Kraków is a romantic gothic city. It is a city that dates back actually about 50,000 years if you include pre-Slavic history. However, the golden age was in the Middle Ages. The time of castles and knights and damsels. Therefore, if you have any romantic ideas, it is an excellent place for a date.

If you are traveling with your boyfriend, husband, girlfriend or wife, Kraków is the place. It’s wandering streets were almost designed for romantic walks, flowing like paths though the city rather than traditional linear grids.

Here are some romantic ideas to explore in magical Kraków!

Take a date to a real castle. On the Wawel hill is an ancient castle. You could spend the whole day there exploring the Royal apartments and the cathedral. Stand on the top and you will see most of the valley. You can explore the dragon’s cave or sit in outdoor cafe’s. The Castle was the center of power for hundreds of years in Europe and the Polish sphere of influence extended from Russia to Western Europe. It was where the Polish kings were crowned and married. Today on any Saturday you will see beautiful Polish brides taking pictures there.

Walk with your girlfriend/boyfriend along Planty – the park around the old town is another romantic walk. Remember Kraków was a walled medieval city and in the walls and underground caverns and tunnels are more magic than any Harry Potter book. Although most of the city walls were taken down over the centuries there are still traces left. The walk around the city is actually a beautiful circular park, these walls and countless historic sites are park of the walk called the “royal way”.

Find a nice Polish girl in a cafe! If you are hip and cool, Kazimierz is the place to hang out if you want to escape the tourist scene. The Polish Jewish quarter was once an island but not part of the city as the river Vistula has changed course. Polish Jewish population lived here for hundreds of year and developed and interesting culture. The traces of this culture can be seen everywhere and give the area a bohemian feel.

The cafes in the old center of Kraków are frequented by the German and UK tourists. The pubs in Kazimierz are where the young Polish hipsters and Krakowians go. It is the Tribeca of Kraków, artsy and trendy. The focal point nexus is or is the club Alchemista which is a club with no lights, only candles (that’s what I remember, unless something has changed)

Enchant a girl (or a boy)  long the river. This is a walk for all four seasons! Along the walkway are numerous views, floating coffee shops and even a beach as well as flowers, trees and benches and magnificent bridges.

However, the best spot to hang out is to simply sitting along the river’s grassy slopes reading a book and watching the sun go down:)

The Wisła River spins and weaves through the romantic city of Kraków, separating it from the ancient fishing town and now district of Podgórze.

The river actually flowed directly though the middle of Kraków in the last century; however, clever Polish engineers shifted the course and flow of the Vistula to save the old town from potential flooding which happens every ten years. Next to Hala Targowa there is a bridge which crossed the river’s old flow.

Nature is always romantic as it is instinct. Las Wolski ( Wolski forest) is the large green area in Kraków. In this forest you can find wild animals and even boars as well as a Zoo and historical monuments. There are endless paths to saunter along.

Deep in the forest the Kamedulków monetary are some holy shines and peaceful chapels. However, girls can visit only a few days a year.

In a room if you whisper something on the other side of the room someone will hear you because of the dynamics of the way it was built. It has whispering walls which will take the expecting by surprise.

Real love comes from God and spirit. A place to go on Sunday for Church for acceptance and unconditional love is the Dominican church-Although not romantic in the Cosmo or sex in the city meaning of romantic, it is in the Medieval sense. It is a church that dates back to the 12th century.

It is an example of gothic architecture which is maintained and shines. It is a monastery from another time and place. The church has magnificent architecture and gothic spirals. If you want to look around, be aware that during mass times it is standing room only and out the door on a Sunda , go during an off hour.The Monks and priests in this community are legendary in Kraków for their wisdom and kindness as well as making you laugh.

So try any of these places and let us know how you liked it!

Do następnego razu… (Till next time…)