{"id":6289,"date":"2014-06-13T10:51:03","date_gmt":"2014-06-13T10:51:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/italian\/?p=6289"},"modified":"2014-06-13T14:53:09","modified_gmt":"2014-06-13T14:53:09","slug":"a-trip-to-ravenna","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/italian\/a-trip-to-ravenna\/","title":{"rendered":"A Trip to Ravenna"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u201cThis spring\u201d we said, \u201cwe\u2019ll go \u2018somewhere\u2019 \u2026 We\u2019re always promising ourselves that we\u2019ll go \u2018somewhere\u2019. When it\u2019s not too cold \u2026 too rainy \u2026 too hot. When we can afford it. When we can find someone to look after the cats. Well, let\u2019s just go \u2026 \u2018somewhere\u2019.<\/font><\/p>\n

Okay, Ravenna, how about Ravenna? We haven\u2019t been there for years \u2026 and Ravenna\u2019s not far from San Marino is it? Yes, let\u2019s go to Ravenna!<\/font><\/p>\n

\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Monday a.m. \u2026 we leave Pontremoli and head north towards Parma. \u2018Rispettare I Limiti Di Velocit\u00e0\u2019<\/strong> (Respect the Speed Limits\u2019), reads the sign. Good advice!<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
We head up towards the Passo della Cisa<\/strong> on the A15.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
The A15 towards Parma cuts through the Appennino Tosco Emiliano<\/strong> mountains<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\u2026 and heads down towards La Pianura Padana<\/strong>, the big plain in the north of Italy.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
The landscape on the northern side of the Appennino<\/strong> becomes much more barren as it flattens out towards the plain, quite a contrast from the green tree covered slopes of Lunigiana<\/strong>.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
The Barilla<\/strong> pasta factory near Parma is the first notable landmark<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
The A1 takes us east across the plain, which is very \u2026 plain \u2026<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\u2026 and quickly gets very boring.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
A horrible crash with a mangled lorry has completely blocked the autostrada<\/strong> heading West. We feel very lucky to be heading East, but sorry for the kilometres of stationary travellers who\u2019ve temporarily abandoned their baking cars and are standing chatting along the edge of the motorway. The temperature is in the mid 30\u2019s (Celsius)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Leaving the A1. We approach the casello<\/strong> (toll booths). 21 euros and 40 cents for about 2 hours of motorway. The autostrade<\/strong> in Italy are very expensive!<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Just outside Ravenna we pass the wonderfully named town of Bagnacavallo<\/strong> (WetTheHorse). <\/p>\n

We arrive in Ravenna and book in at the Ostello per la Giovent\u00f9<\/strong> (youth hostel), Ostello Dante<\/strong>. For only 48 euros a night we have our own double room with shower, including breakfast, and use of all facilities. The Warden, Micaela<\/strong> is very friendly and helpful, she has created a wonderful \u2018relax\u2019 room in the hostel, which we make good use of. <\/p>\n

We spend the afternoon mooching around Ravenna and return to the hostel hot, tired and ready for a good night\u2019s kip \u2026 <\/p>\n

\u2026 2:30 a.m. woken up by a group of selfish French twenty-something who seem to think they are the only occupants of the hostel \u2026 sono incazzato nero!<\/strong> <\/p>\n

7:00 a.m. I get up nice and early to return the favour by banging on their door until they groaningly open it \u2026 BUONGIORNO<\/strong>! I shout at them \u2026 did you sleep well? \u2026 time to get up! S\u00ec, sono cattivo io <\/strong>,-)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n

 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
We make the most of an early start and set off south for the independent Republic of San Marino<\/strong> while it\u2019s still relatively fresh. After an hour\u2019s drive San Marino rears up before us out of the plain perched atop its lofty natural fortification.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
A convenient, but overpriced cable car takes us up from the (expensive) car park to the old hilltop town.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
San Marino \u2026 tourists and tacky gift shops. Here I managed the extraordinary feat of taking a photo with neither of them in it!<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Just one of the countless horrid knick knack kiosks that filled every little corner of the potentially beautiful medieval town of S. Marino \u2026 well, you get the idea.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
The views away from the town are stunning! Looking east with the Mare Adriatico<\/strong> (Adriatic Sea) and Rimini<\/strong> in the background<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\u2026 and looking west towards the foothills of the Appennino<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
A final glimpse of S. Marino before we set off back to Ravenna. If you can switch off from the horrible sell out to tourism (something that I fail at badly) then it\u2019s really quite charming.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Back in Ravenna: After a good night\u2019s sleep at Ostello Dante<\/strong> (yes, the French lads had called it quits and moved out after Micaela the warden gave them an earful), we make another early start and drive out to Sant\u2019Apollinare in Classe<\/strong>. S. Appolinare<\/strong> is a beautiful basilica with Byzantine mosaics dating from around 500 A.D.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Outside the basilica Serena befriends a lonely buffalo \u2026<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\u2026 then sends it off to join its friends.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
The interior \u2026 bellissimo<\/strong>!<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\u2026 a detail of the mosaic \u2026<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\u2026 and another one. Even after 1,500 years the colours look absolutely fresh and stunning. Unlike frescos, mosaics don\u2019t fade.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
The simple polished marble columns of the interior.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Back to Ravenna again, we park the car in a shady place and walk into the town center. Our first stop is the Basilica di San Giovanni Evangelista<\/strong>, built in the 5th Century AD it survived until the end of WWII when an allied bombing raid on the nearby railway station completely flattened it. Thankfully it was painstakingly rebuilt after the war.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
An information board in the basilica with a picture of the wartime damage.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
However, every cloud has a silver lining, and during the restoration much of the original floor of the basilica, which had been covered up for centuries, was unearthed. Sections of this simple but beautiful mosaic flooring are on display inside the basilica. <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Surely one of the \u2018must do\u2019s\u2019 when visiting in Ravenna is Il Mausoleo di Galla Placidia<\/strong>. Watch out for an upcoming blog on the subject.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Amazing 5th Century mosaics inside Il Mausoleo di Galla Placidia<\/strong>. It was pretty dark inside, and not being able to use flash this is the only half decent photo I managed to take. The whole of the interior is covered in mosaics like this \u2026 fantastic! <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
The mausoleum is tucked away behind the architecturally stunning 6th Century Basilica di San Vitale<\/strong>. This view shows the later 18th Century baroque frescoes (I have a pet hate for Baroque but this isn\u2019t too offensive!)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
The incredible Byzantine mosaics from around 547 A.D. Note that Christ (bottom centre) is depicted without a beard. The bearded version of Christ only became the standard form at a later date.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
The tomb of Dante Alighieri<\/strong> can also be found in Ravenna. Next to his tomb is a small tumulus where Dante’s remains were kept safe from the final ravages of WWII. The inscription reads: UNDER THIS TUMULUS THE BONES OF DANTE RESTED SAFELY FROM 23 MARCH 1944 TO 19 DECEMBER 1945. <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Our visit to Ravenna at an end, we set off for home across the hot desolate plain. I while away the time by  trying to find interesting things to photograph. This is the amazing Stazione di Reggio Emilia AV<\/strong>, a massive sculptural railway station for the high speed trains that run parallel to the A1. Strangely it appears to be in the middle of nowhere \u2026 note to self \u2026 must investigate.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
A rather expensive load! A transporter filled with Maseratis<\/strong>, each with its own tailored dust cover heads towards Reggio Emilia<\/strong>.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Ravenna<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Yippee, we\u2019re nearly home! The final stretch of motorway to Pontremoli<\/strong> with a welcoming view of \u2018our\u2019 mountains \u2026 yes, we live over there. It\u2019s a relief to leave the burning plain behind us and return to the green freshness of Lunigiana<\/strong>. <\/p>\n

I love going away, but I love coming home even more! My house, my bed, my cup of tea \u2026 now, where are those pussy cats? It\u2019s time for lots of stroking and purring.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"\"\"

\u201cThis spring\u201d we said, \u201cwe\u2019ll go \u2018somewhere\u2019 \u2026 We\u2019re always promising ourselves that we\u2019ll go \u2018somewhere\u2019. When it\u2019s not too cold \u2026 too rainy \u2026 too hot. When we can afford it. When we can find someone to look after the cats. Well, let\u2019s just go \u2026 \u2018somewhere\u2019. Okay, Ravenna, how about Ravenna? We haven\u2019t…<\/p>\n

Continue Reading<\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"author":90,"featured_media":6288,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"content-type":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6289","post","type-post","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/italian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6289","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/italian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/italian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/italian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/90"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/italian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6289"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/italian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6289\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6297,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/italian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6289\/revisions\/6297"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/italian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/6288"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/italian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6289"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/italian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=6289"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/italian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=6289"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}