{"id":2457,"date":"2011-11-23T08:00:08","date_gmt":"2011-11-23T08:00:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/russian\/?p=2457"},"modified":"2014-07-17T17:35:30","modified_gmt":"2014-07-17T17:35:30","slug":"cook-this-russian-dish-tonight","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/russian\/cook-this-russian-dish-tonight\/","title":{"rendered":"Cook This Russian Dish Tonight"},"content":{"rendered":"

If you ever want to read a passionate account of \u00ab<\/strong>\u0440\u0443<\/span>\u0441\u0441\u043a\u0430\u044f <\/strong>\u043a\u0443<\/span>\u0445\u043d\u044f\u00bb<\/strong> [Russian cuisine] minus the recipes, I highly recommend \u00ab<\/strong>\u0420\u0443<\/span>\u0441\u0441\u043a\u0430\u044f <\/strong>\u043a\u0443<\/span>\u0445\u043d\u044f <\/strong>\u0432 <\/strong>\u0438\u0437\u0433\u043d\u0430<\/span>\u043d\u0438\u0438\u00bb<\/strong> [Russian Cuisine in Exile] by \u00ab<\/strong>\u041f\u0451\u0442\u0440 <\/strong>\u0412\u0430\u0439\u043b\u044c <\/strong>\u0438 <\/strong>\u0410\u043b\u0435\u043a\u0441\u0430<\/span>\u043d\u0434\u0440 <\/strong>\u0413\u0435<\/span>\u043d\u0438\u0441\u00bb<\/strong> [Pyotr Vail<\/a> and Alexander Genis<\/a>].<\/em><\/p>\n

This is not a cookbook, but rather a collection of essays \u00ab<\/strong>\u0432 <\/strong>\u0436\u0430<\/span>\u043d\u0440\u0435 <\/strong>\u043b\u0438\u0440\u0438<\/span>\u0447\u0435\u0441\u043a\u043e\u0439 <\/strong>\u043a\u0443\u043b\u044c\u0442\u0443\u0440\u043e\u043b\u043e<\/span>\u0433\u0438\u0438\u00bb<\/strong> [in the \u201clyrical culturology\u201d genre]. By the way, the term \u201clyrical culturlogy\u201d is not my coinage, but how Alexander Genis describes his work.<\/p>\n

Unfortunately, the book has not been translated into English. But the Russian language copy is available in both hard-cover \u00ab<\/strong>\u043f\u043e\u0434\u0430<\/span>\u0440\u043e\u0447\u043d\u043e\u0435 <\/strong>\u0438\u0437\u0434\u0430<\/span>\u043d\u0438\u0435\u00bb<\/strong> [deluxe edition] and online<\/a> through \u00ab<\/strong>\u043e\u043d\u043b\u0430<\/span>\u0439\u043d <\/strong>\u0431\u0438\u0431\u043b\u0438\u043e\u0442\u0435<\/span>\u043a\u0438\u00bb<\/strong> [online libraries] such as erLib.com (if you are concerned with copyright issues, erLib mentions that books they host are made available through publisher\u2019s agreement).<\/p>\n

So, this book, in chapter 31 (these are short chapters), mentions a dish that makes many Russians sigh wistfully, their eyes glazed over and their minds turned away from the affairs at hand and towards the next meal. And I\u2019m talking about both men and women.<\/p>\n

What is this \u00ab<\/strong>\u0437\u0430\u0433\u0430<\/span>\u0434\u043e\u0447\u043d\u043e\u0435 <\/strong>\u0431\u043b\u044e<\/span>\u0434\u043e\u00bb<\/strong> [mysterious dish] that Vail and Genis call \u00ab<\/strong>\u043f\u0440\u0435\u0434\u0435<\/span>\u043b <\/strong>\u043a\u0443\u043b\u0438\u043d\u0430<\/span>\u0440\u043d\u043e\u0439 <\/strong>\u0444\u0430\u043d\u0442\u0430<\/span>\u0437\u0438\u0438, <\/strong>\u0441\u043e\u0435\u0434\u0438\u043d\u0451<\/span>\u043d\u043d\u043e\u0439 <\/strong>\u0441 <\/strong>\u043e<\/span><\/strong>\u043f\u044b\u0442\u043e\u043c\u00bb<\/strong> [the yardstick of culinary fantasy, combined with experience]?<\/p>\n

Don\u2019t worry, it doesn\u2019t call for \u00ab<\/strong>\u044d\u043a\u0437\u043e\u0442\u0438<\/span>\u0447\u0435\u0441\u043a\u0438\u0435 <\/strong>\u0438\u043d\u0433\u0440\u0435\u0434\u0438\u0435<\/span>\u043d\u0442\u044b\u00bb<\/strong> [exotic ingredients]. I bet you have \u00ab<\/strong>\u0432\u0441\u0435 <\/strong>\u043d\u0435\u043e\u0431\u0445\u043e\u0434\u0438<\/span>\u043c\u044b\u0435 <\/strong>\u043f\u0440\u043e\u0434\u0443<\/span>\u043a\u0442\u044b\u00bb<\/strong> [all the necessary food items] \u00ab<\/strong>\u043f\u043e\u0434 <\/strong>\u0440\u0443\u043a\u043e<\/span>\u0439\u00bb<\/strong> [handy]. Nor will you need special \u00ab<\/strong>\u043a\u0443<\/span>\u0445\u043e\u043d\u043d\u0430\u044f <\/strong>\u0443<\/span><\/strong>\u0442\u0432\u0430\u0440\u044c\u00bb<\/strong> [kitchen utensils] for it, unless you don\u2019t have \u00ab<\/strong>\u0441\u043a\u043e\u0432\u043e\u0440\u043e\u0434\u0430<\/span>\u00bb<\/strong> [a skillet] and \u00ab<\/strong>\u043b\u043e\u043f\u0430<\/span>\u0442\u043e\u0447\u043a\u0430\u00bb<\/strong> [spatula].<\/p>\n

And don\u2019t you feel intimidated either. As the same \u201cRussian Cuisine in Exile\u201d says the dish requires \u00ab99% <\/strong>\u0442\u0440\u0443\u0434\u0430<\/span> <\/strong>\u0438 1% <\/strong>\u0442\u0430\u043b\u0430<\/span>\u043d\u0442\u0430\u00bb<\/strong> [99% work and 1% talent].<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

You\u2019ve probably guessed it by now. If not, the dish is a humble \u00ab<\/strong>\u0436\u0430<\/span>\u0440\u0435\u043d\u0430\u044f \u043a\u0430\u0440\u0442\u043e<\/span>\u0448\u043a\u0430\u00bb<\/strong> [fried potatoes].\u00a0\u00a0But don\u2019t get it confused with \u00ab<\/strong>\u043a\u0430\u0440\u0442\u043e<\/span>\u0448\u043a\u0430 <\/strong>\u0444\u0440\u0438\u00bb<\/strong> [French fries]. It is nothing on the kind as you will soon find out. If anything, it\u2019s closer to what here, in the US, is called \u201chome fries\u201d.<\/p>\n

There are some crucial differences, however. First one is in how you slice the potatoes. Instead of chopping it into cubes, you need to \u00ab<\/strong>\u043d\u0430\u0440\u0435<\/span>\u0437\u0430\u0442\u044c <\/strong>\u043a\u0430\u0440\u0442\u043e<\/span>\u0448\u043a\u0443 <\/strong>\u0441\u043e\u043b\u043e<\/span>\u043c\u043a\u043e\u0439\u00bb<\/strong> [cut potatoes into strips] as if for French fries. Then wash it to get rid of as much \u00ab\u043a\u0440\u0430\u0445\u043c\u0430\u043b\u00bb<\/strong> [starch] as possible, then dry well with a towel.<\/p>\n

Next, heat some \u00ab<\/strong>\u0440\u0430\u0441\u0442\u0438<\/span>\u0442\u0435\u043b\u044c\u043d\u043e\u0435 <\/strong>\u043c\u0430<\/span>\u0441\u043b\u043e\u00bb<\/strong> [vegetable oil] in a skillet. One table spoon for each potato should be enough. Now, if you want your potatoes to be as authentically Russian as possible, use \u00ab<\/strong>\u043f\u043e\u0434\u0441\u043e<\/span>\u043b\u043d\u0435\u0447\u043d\u043e\u0435 <\/strong>\u043c\u0430<\/span>\u0441\u043b\u043e\u00bb<\/strong> [sunflower oil]. If you are not a vegetarian and don\u2019t stay away from pork, you can even use \u00ab<\/strong>\u0441\u0430<\/span>\u043b\u043e\u00bb<\/strong> [lard].<\/p>\n

Once the oil is heated, add potatoes to it and cover with the lid. Remove the lid only to stir the potatoes. You have to stir \u00ab<\/strong>\u0447\u0430<\/span>\u0441\u0442\u043e, <\/strong>\u043d\u043e <\/strong>\u043d\u0435<\/span>\u0436\u043d\u043e\u00bb<\/strong> [often, but gently].<\/p>\n

Midway through the process, \u00ab<\/strong>\u043a\u0430\u0440\u0442\u043e<\/span>\u0448\u043a\u0443 <\/strong>\u0441\u043b\u0435<\/span>\u0434\u0443\u0435\u0442 <\/strong>\u043f\u043e\u0441\u043e\u043b\u0438<\/span>\u0442\u044c\u00bb<\/strong> [you must add salt to potatoes]. Then \u00ab<\/strong>\u0441\u043d\u044f\u0442\u044c <\/strong>\u043a\u0440\u044b<\/span>\u0448\u043a\u0443\u00bb<\/strong> [remove the lid] or the potatoes will be soft, not crispy.<\/p>\n

So far so good, but how is this different from home fries? Ok, a couple of minutes before you turn the heat off, add \u00ab<\/strong>\u043c\u0435<\/span>\u043b\u043a\u043e- <\/strong>\u043d\u0430\u0440\u0443<\/span>\u0431\u043b\u0435\u043d\u043d\u044b\u0439 <\/strong>\u0447\u0435\u0441\u043d\u043e<\/span>\u043a\u00bb<\/strong> [finely chopped garlic] and lots of \u00ab<\/strong>\u0443\u043a\u0440\u043e<\/span>\u043f\u00bb<\/strong> [dill]. As with so many other Russian dishes, this one can be served with \u00ab<\/strong>\u0441\u043c\u0435\u0442\u0430<\/span>\u043d\u0430\u00bb<\/strong> [sour cream]. If sour cream is not your thing, it\u2019s perfect without it. Just don\u2019t eat it with \u00ab\u043a\u0435<\/span>\u0442\u0447\u0443\u043f\u00bb<\/strong> [ketchup]!<\/p>\n

If you have some extra time and some \u00ab<\/strong>\u043b\u0443\u043a <\/strong>\u0438 <\/strong>\u0433\u0440\u0438\u0431\u044b<\/span>\u00bb<\/strong> [onions and mushrooms], you can make this already delicious dish even better. Before you start on potatoes, fry chopped onions and mushrooms until onions are caramelized and mushrooms give off all the liquid. Add onions and mushrooms to the dish right before adding garlic and dill. Sure, it takes a bit extra time, but the result is \u00ab<\/strong>\u043f\u0430<\/span>\u043b\u044c\u0447\u0438\u043a\u0438 <\/strong>\u043e\u0431\u043b\u0438<\/span>\u0436\u0435\u0448\u044c!\u00bb<\/strong> [finger-licking good!]<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

This can be served on its own. But if you want to go all out, make sure there\u2019s some \u00ab<\/strong>\u0447\u0451<\/span>\u0440\u043d\u044b\u0439 <\/strong>\u0445\u043b\u0435\u0431\u00bb<\/strong> [dark Russian bread] and \u00ab<\/strong>\u043a\u043e\u043f\u0447\u0451<\/span>\u043d\u0430\u044f <\/strong>\u0440\u044b<\/span>\u0431\u0430\u00bb<\/strong> [smoked fish] on the plate.<\/p>\n

If your mouth is not watering by now, the only reason is that you just ate a plateful of \u00ab<\/strong>\u0436\u0430<\/span>\u0440\u0435\u043d\u0430\u044f <\/strong>\u043a\u0430\u0440\u0442\u043e<\/span>\u0448\u043a\u0430\u00bb<\/strong> [fried potatoes].<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"\"\"

If you ever want to read a passionate account of \u00ab\u0440\u0443\u0441\u0441\u043a\u0430\u044f \u043a\u0443\u0445\u043d\u044f\u00bb [Russian cuisine] minus the recipes, I highly recommend \u00ab\u0420\u0443\u0441\u0441\u043a\u0430\u044f \u043a\u0443\u0445\u043d\u044f \u0432 \u0438\u0437\u0433\u043d\u0430\u043d\u0438\u0438\u00bb [Russian Cuisine in Exile] by \u00ab\u041f\u0451\u0442\u0440 \u0412\u0430\u0439\u043b\u044c \u0438 \u0410\u043b\u0435\u043a\u0441\u0430\u043d\u0434\u0440 \u0413\u0435\u043d\u0438\u0441\u00bb [Pyotr Vail and Alexander Genis]. This is not a cookbook, but rather a collection of essays \u00ab\u0432 \u0436\u0430\u043d\u0440\u0435 \u043b\u0438\u0440\u0438\u0447\u0435\u0441\u043a\u043e\u0439 \u043a\u0443\u043b\u044c\u0442\u0443\u0440\u043e\u043b\u043e\u0433\u0438\u0438\u00bb [in…<\/p>\n

Continue Reading<\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"author":39,"featured_media":2460,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"content-type":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[117476,117473,117475,117474,385636],"class_list":["post-2457","post","type-post","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-culture","tag-cook-russian-food","tag-home-fries","tag-russian-cook-books","tag-russian-cuisine-in-exile","tag-russian-food"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/russian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2457","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/russian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/russian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/russian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/39"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/russian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2457"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/russian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2457\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6386,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/russian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2457\/revisions\/6386"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/russian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2460"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/russian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2457"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/russian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2457"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.transparent.com\/russian\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2457"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}