Cool Off in the Dieng Plateau Posted by sasha on May 18, 2015 in Uncategorized
If the scorching heat of Java gets to be too much, just head for the hills in the Dieng Plateau. At 2,000 meters (6,600 feet) above sea level, it’s much cooler up here than in the lowlands. The name comes from two Sanskrit words – di (abode) and hyang (gods), making Dieng the “Abode of the Gods.” We’re with the gods on this one – it’s much better to live up in the cool mountain air than sweating it out on the crowded streets of Java’s mega-cities. As such, we rented some wheels and set off on an adventure to check out Borobudur en route to Dieng. Climbing higher and higher, we enjoyed the cooler temperatures and the awe-inspiring surroundings. After all, it’s not every day you ride a motorbike past towering volcanos and rolling terraced fields.
Although the ride was incredibly scenic, it also seemed to go on forever. On a narrow, meandering road full of potholes, we started to wonder if we’d make it to town before dark. With the sun going down behind the hills, we were also getting a bit cold. It wasn’t comfortable, but it did make for a great photo opp.
Finally in town, we sought about finding accommodations for our stay. Most people visit Dieng on a day trip, so there aren’t exactly a ton of options up here. In order to practice my newfound (and very mediocre) Indonesian skills, we decided to stay with a local family. They were incredibly hospitable from the get-go, setting us up in our room and even cooking dinner for us. For a more authentic experience, consider doing a homestay at least once on your trip in Indonesia. Even if you can only speak a little of the language, it’s still a great experience and a valuable cultural exchange.
With a full day to explore Dieng, you can do a loop to take in all of the sights. First up, visit the Arjuna temple complex – some of the oldest Hindu temples on Java, dating back to the 8th century. While they aren’t exactly the most impressive temples (especially after seeing Prambanan and Borobudur), the setting can’t be beat. Sit down and enjoy the views of clouds rolling over a volcano off in the distance. For a small fee, you can even get a sweet picture taken with characters from the Ramayana epic.
Dieng is very much an active volcanic region, which you can see firsthand upon arriving at Kawah Sikidang, a crater with steaming vents and boiling mud. Take a short hike for an elevated view, and then buy a couple of boiled eggs cooked right there in the crater.
Keep on walking, stopping here and there to take in the views of the peaceful mountain villages, and you may forget you’re still on the world’s most populous island. After visiting Jakarta, Bogor, Bandung, and Yogyakarta, we were thrilled to be out of the concrete jungle, breathing in the crisp mountain air and not sweating profusely all day.
Next up is Telaga Warna, which can be translated as “Colored Lake.” A short hike brings you to a fantastic viewpoint, which is a popular picnic spot for Indonesian families. If you need a bit more excitement than that, there’s also a short zipline set up here.
You can easily cover the loop by yourself, and that was our plan when we set out in the morning. Upon striking up a conversation with a nice local guy, however, we decided to hire him as our guide for the day. As was the case with most people we met in Indonesia, he was incredibly friendly and helpful. We had a great morning taking in the sights and chatting with him, and he even invited us to his house for dinner. He also loved collecting pins, and we promised to send him one from America one of these days.
After bidding farewell to our awesome guide, we got back on the bike and cruised around a bit to take in the stunning scenery. We saw a lot of beautiful places in our 7-month backpacking trip across Southeast Asia, and the Dieng Plateau is certainly high atop that list.
Turning down a random side road, we ended up back where we started at the temple complex. Seeing as how we had already bought tickets that morning, we didn’t feel bad about going back there through the back entrance for free.
If you’re super motivated, you can get up in the wee hours of the morning to ride up to Gunung Sikunir (Mount Sikunir) for sunrise. You’ll be cold and tired, but it all pays off when you get to watch the sun peek its head through the clouds, basking the hills and villages in a sea of orange and blue.
Making the trek up here for sunrise is quite popular, and they’ve even got places you can camp out around a small lake, a few little restaurants and shops, and live entertainment via a group of guys jamming out with a trash can for a drum.
We had our own wheels, but we couldn’t help but wonder exactly what the “Romantic Desire: Mafia Speed” bus would be like. Oh well… maybe next time.
After breakfast, it was time to get back on the bike and begin the long ride back down to Jogja. Although we were originally on the fence about taking the time to trek up to Dieng, doing so proved to be one of the best decisions we made in our 45-day trip across Indonesia. If motorbikes aren’t for you, it’s also possible to reach Dieng by bus, or you could just hire a driver for the day. Get out of the crowded Javanese cities, cool off, and enjoy the natural beauty of this amazing place – you’ll be glad you did!
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About the Author: sasha
Sasha is an English teacher, writer, photographer, and videographer from the great state of Michigan. Upon graduating from Michigan State University, he moved to China and spent 5+ years living, working, studying, and traveling there. He also studied Indonesian Language & Culture in Bali for a year. He and his wife run the travel blog Grateful Gypsies, and they're currently trying the digital nomad lifestyle across Latin America.