Poland may not be one of the first countries to come to mind when thinking of beer, but it does have much in this sphere to warrant attention. It combines elements of the Czech, German and British traditions and even has a unique style of its own, the intriguing and obscure grodziskie beer (piwo grodziskie).

The practice of brewing stretches well back into the Middle Ages, but it was in the 19th century when large-scale brewing began. At this time, as elsewhere in continental Europe, made ideas, techniques and machines were borrowed from the industrial breweries which were beginning to develop in Britain. As in many countries around the Baltic, this style gained popularity through exports from Britain in the late 19th century.

As bottom-fermenting techniques were developed elsewhere in Europe in the middle of the century, these were also adopted (not surprising at a time when large parts of present-day Poland were under German or Austrian rule), giving rise to pale lager beers. Porter, however, was never completely supplanted by these new beers and is still produced today. Beer production grew steadily up until the outbreak of the First World War, after which the state of Poland reappeared.

The economic crisis between the wars slowed the growth of the industry. On the eve of the German invasion in 1939 there were 137 breweries in operation. German occupation and war damage sent it into serious decline. It was more than a decade after the end of the occupation that output was able to equal pre-war levels. Production increased from 3.33 million hectoliters in 1950 to 14.2 million hl in 1992.

Beer consumption has increased greatly from 26 liters per person in 1984 and is now around 40 liters. This is well below the level reached in most western European countries, but given another 10 years or so they should have caught up. On the other hand, consumption of spirits, at least from what I saw in pubs, has lost a lot of its popularity.

Currently, there are around 80 breweries active, including three micros founded in the 1990’s. Beers are produced at a wide range of strengths, from 2.5% to 9.5% alcohol. Those at the higher end are more common that you might expect, but it’s perhaps not quite so surprising when you consider the vodka-drinking tradition. In type, these are mostly pale lagers, though there are some dark lagers, too. Porters, in the strong Baltic style, are produced by a large number of breweries. These are around 22% balling or 9% alcohol, very dark brown to black in color and with a sweet, rich flavor.

Lastly, there is the unique grodziskie beer, a top-fermenting smoked wheat beer, which was produced by a single brewery in the town of Grodzisk close to Poznan. Somehow this odd style managed to survive the conversion to bottom fermenting techniques and was a reminder of an older beer tradition. It didn’t fare so well with the re-introduction of capitalism. The brewery making it was closed in a bout of “rationalization” during the 1990’s.

So if you are in Poland, make sure and try some local beer. I think you will really enjoy it.

Do następnego razu! (Till next time…)