If you ever want to read a passionate account of «русская кухня» [Russian cuisine] minus the recipes, I highly recommend «Русская кухня в изгнании» [Russian Cuisine in Exile] by «Пётр Вайль и Александр Генис» [Pyotr Vail and Alexander Genis].

This is not a cookbook, but rather a collection of essays «в жанре лирической культурологии» [in the “lyrical culturology” genre]. By the way, the term “lyrical culturlogy” is not my coinage, but how Alexander Genis describes his work.

Unfortunately, the book has not been translated into English. But the Russian language copy is available in both hard-cover «подарочное издание» [deluxe edition] and online through «онлайн библиотеки» [online libraries] such as erLib.com (if you are concerned with copyright issues, erLib mentions that books they host are made available through publisher’s agreement).

So, this book, in chapter 31 (these are short chapters), mentions a dish that makes many Russians sigh wistfully, their eyes glazed over and their minds turned away from the affairs at hand and towards the next meal. And I’m talking about both men and women.

What is this «загадочное блюдо» [mysterious dish] that Vail and Genis call «предел кулинарной фантазии, соединённой с опытом» [the yardstick of culinary fantasy, combined with experience]?

Don’t worry, it doesn’t call for «экзотические ингредиенты» [exotic ingredients]. I bet you have «все необходимые продукты» [all the necessary food items] «под рукой» [handy]. Nor will you need special «кухонная утварь» [kitchen utensils] for it, unless you don’t have «сковорода» [a skillet] and «лопаточка» [spatula].

And don’t you feel intimidated either. As the same “Russian Cuisine in Exile” says the dish requires «99% труда и 1% таланта» [99% work and 1% talent].

You’ve probably guessed it by now. If not, the dish is a humble «жареная картошка» [fried potatoes].  But don’t get it confused with «картошка фри» [French fries]. It is nothing on the kind as you will soon find out. If anything, it’s closer to what here, in the US, is called “home fries”.

There are some crucial differences, however. First one is in how you slice the potatoes. Instead of chopping it into cubes, you need to «нарезать картошку соломкой» [cut potatoes into strips] as if for French fries. Then wash it to get rid of as much «крахмал» [starch] as possible, then dry well with a towel.

Next, heat some «растительное масло» [vegetable oil] in a skillet. One table spoon for each potato should be enough. Now, if you want your potatoes to be as authentically Russian as possible, use «подсолнечное масло» [sunflower oil]. If you are not a vegetarian and don’t stay away from pork, you can even use «сало» [lard].

Once the oil is heated, add potatoes to it and cover with the lid. Remove the lid only to stir the potatoes. You have to stir «часто, но нежно» [often, but gently].

Midway through the process, «картошку следует посолить» [you must add salt to potatoes]. Then «снять крышку» [remove the lid] or the potatoes will be soft, not crispy.

So far so good, but how is this different from home fries? Ok, a couple of minutes before you turn the heat off, add «мелко- нарубленный чеснок» [finely chopped garlic] and lots of «укроп» [dill]. As with so many other Russian dishes, this one can be served with «сметана» [sour cream]. If sour cream is not your thing, it’s perfect without it. Just don’t eat it with «кетчуп» [ketchup]!

If you have some extra time and some «лук и грибы» [onions and mushrooms], you can make this already delicious dish even better. Before you start on potatoes, fry chopped onions and mushrooms until onions are caramelized and mushrooms give off all the liquid. Add onions and mushrooms to the dish right before adding garlic and dill. Sure, it takes a bit extra time, but the result is «пальчики оближешь!» [finger-licking good!]

This can be served on its own. But if you want to go all out, make sure there’s some «чёрный хлеб» [dark Russian bread] and «копчёная рыба» [smoked fish] on the plate.

If your mouth is not watering by now, the only reason is that you just ate a plateful of «жареная картошка» [fried potatoes].