La Couronne: The Oldest Restaurant in France? Posted by Elizabeth Schmermund on Apr 9, 2018 in Culture
France is known for having many of the oldest restaurants in the world. Why is this? Because the first modern restaurant was established in Paris in 1765. Run by Monsieur Boulanger (which literally translates to Mr. Baker), this restaurant served just one dish: sheep’s feet in a white wine sauce. On the eve of the French Revolution, many other restaurants began to pop up in the French capital. In fact, many food historians tie the French Revolution with the beginning of restaurants. As aristocratic French families let go of their cooks, these chefs de cuisine opened their own businesses to bring in money. Just before the French Revolution, there were only about 50 restaurants in Paris. By 1814, 3,000 restaurants were listed in the popular French travel guide Almanach des Gourmands (The Almanac of Food Lovers).
But what about La Couronne (which, by the way, translates to “The Crown” in English). This French restaurant is sometimes cited as the oldest one in France, although it predates the French Revolution and Monsieur Boulanger’s restaurant by about 400 years. That’s because La Couronne, which is located in the city of Rouen, began as an inn, which also served food to travelers. Some food historians claim it to be one of the oldest restaurants in the world, although others take issue that it operated more as a modern bed and breakfast than a restaurant.
La Couronne was founded in 1345 and is most definitely the oldest inn (auberge) in France. It is located in the Old Market Square (la place du Vieux-Marché) of Rouen, near where Jeanne d’Arc was burnt at the stake in 1431. And while it has necessarily been updated in the seven centuries since it was founded, La Couronne still boasts authentic wooden beams and the traditional Normand country style architecture Rouen is known for.
The food has gotten glowing reviews, too, from no less than Julia Child. In 1948, Child ate at the restaurant and called it “the most exciting meal of my life.” In the movie Julie and Julia, Maryl Streep and Stanley Tucci are shown dining there. The food is traditionally French and the menu features items like sole meunière (Dover sole with butter, parsley, and lemon), canard à la Rouennaise (pressed duck, or duck served in a blood and bone marrow sauce), and fromage blanc avec des fruits du bois (white cheese with berries). It even has a Michelin star, with the following review:
“Superbement préservée, cette maison normande de 1345 serait “la plus vieille auberge de France”. C’est en tout cas une grande institution, pleine d’âme, idéale pour savourer une cuisine empreinte de classicisme …”
(“Superbly preserved, this Normand building dating from 1345 is the “oldest inn in France.” In any case, it’s a great institution, full of spirit, and ideal for savoring classic French cuisine.”)
If you’re in Rouen, you can visit La Couronne at 31 Place du Vieux Marche. You can also visit it online at www.lacourronne.com.fr.
**The Guinness Book of World Records cites the restaurant Sobrino de Botín in Madrid, Spain, as the oldest continuously running restaurant in the world. Guess what? The founder of the restaurant, Jean Botin, was French!**
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