A Short Trip in Shanghai (Part One)

Posted on 02. Sep, 2015 by in Uncategorized

Welcome to Shanghai!

Welcome to Shanghai!

Shanghai is the largest city by population in China, the country’s financial capital, a place where fashion trends are set, and a metropolis with a long, rich history. Here’s an introduction to Shanghai, with sights from the financial center, The Bund, Nanjing Road, Old Shanghai, and more.

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The Old Town of Lijiang

Posted on 30. Aug, 2015 by in Uncategorized

One of the most popular places to visit in Yunnan province (and China in general) is the old town of Lijiang (丽江 – lì jiāng). Famed for its snowy mountain peaks, vibrant ethnic minority culture, and relaxed pace of life, this Song Dynasty-era town attracts throngs of tourists, both domestic and international. The town was even granted UNESCO World Heritage status in 1997 as “an exceptional ancient town set in a dramatic landscape which represents the harmonious fusion of different cultural traditions to produce an urban landscape of outstanding quality.” Although the crowds here can be a bit intense – especially during major Chinese holidays such as the Spring Festival and National Day – visiting at off-peak times isn’t so bad, and the natural beauty surrounding the town makes it a very worthwhile destination.

 

 

 

 

The Old Town as seen from above.

The Old Town as seen from above.

For those interested in traveling to Lijiang, here’s a brief guide to this famous town:

The Old Town

 

Some scenes of the old town.

Some scenes of the old town.

The old town was once an important stop along the ancient Tea Horse Road (茶马古道 – chá mǎ gǔ dào), and today it serves as the center of tourism. A maze of cobblestone streets, bridges, and waterways, it’s a great place to get lost and just wander around. Most of the buildings have been converted into hotels, restaurants, and shops, but at least the outward appearance still evokes a sense of an ancient Chinese town.

Local temple in Lijiang.

Local temple in Lijiang.

It’s not all knick-knack shops and guesthouses here, though – you can also stumble into a quaint little Buddhist temple or enjoy hanging out in the wide open square in the middle of town.

More of the old town.

More of the old town.

A major highlight of the old town is the fact that it’s pedestrian only, making for a nice break from the big cities of China which are full of traffic jams and honking horns. That being said, the endless repetition of bongo drum shops, ethnic minority clothing, and yak meat jerky detract a bit from the character of the town. That plus the never-ending crowds of matching-hat wearing Chinese tourists will ensure that you want to escape the old town before too long to explore the surrounding area.

Black Dragon Pool (黑龙潭 – hēi lóng tán)

The Black Dragon Pool

The Black Dragon Pool

Located just about 1 km away from the center of town, this park is popular with locals and tourists alike. On a clear day, you can get a postcard-worthy view of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (玉龙雪山 – yù lóng xuě shān) towering in the distance.

The mountain is behind those pesky clouds.

The mountain is behind those pesky clouds.

It’s also a great place for people watching, as locals love coming here to relax, play cards, or even engage in some group dancing.

Bust a move.

Bust a move.

While there’s technically an entrance fee required to visit the park, it’s not that hard to avoid it by walking around the park’s side rather than using the front gate. Seeing as how they already charge you 80 RMB just to be in the old town, we didn’t feel so bad skirting an extra fee just to visit the park.

Wan Gu Lou Tower (万古楼 – wàn gǔ lóu)

Take in the views from above.

Take in the views from above.

For a bird’s eye view of the town, head to the top of the Wan Gu Lou tower. Free from the loud music and pushy crowds, the old town looks a lot better from above. From this vantage point, it’s almost possible to imagine what the town was like hundreds of years ago, long before selfie sticks reigned supreme. It’s an interesting contrast seeing the old town off to one side and the new city to the other – a clear example of China’s past and present standing side by side.

Shuhe Ancient Town (束河古镇 – shù hé gǔ zhèn)

A Buddhist temple in Shuhe.

A Buddhist temple in Shuhe.

If the crowds in Lijiang become a bit too much for you, jump on a bike and cycle up to another ancient town – Shuhe. Although it’s starting to look more and more like Lijiang, the crowds are much smaller here and it’s just as scenic.

Scenes from Shuhe.

Scenes from Shuhe.

Those seeking a quieter, more peaceful vacation may even want to consider just staying out here instead of in Lijiang. There are plenty of guest houses to accommodate the small crowds, and you’ll definitely have a more relaxing trip by staying here instead.

Chill out in Shuhe.

Chill out in Shuhe.

Naxi Culture (纳西文化 – nà xī wén huà)

Naxi orchestra jammin' out.

Naxi orchestra jammin’ out.

One of China’s 55 ethnic minority groups, the Naxi people live primarily in the Lijiang area. Traveling here is a great way to experience their culture, especially by taking in the nightly performance of the orchestra. Composed mostly of men aged 70-90, they play traditional songs on traditional instruments, making for a fantastic evening of music.

Naxi orchestra

Naxi orchestra

Accommodation

October Inn

October Inn

There’s no shortage of places to stay in and around Lijiang, ranging from budget dorm rooms to 5-star hotels. Keep in mind that staying within the old town generally means higher prices and bigger crowds. We opted to stay in the relatively new October Inn, located just a short walk outside of the town in a village. The owner is super friendly, the views from the roof are incredible, and they have what just may be the best bunk beds ever. For those seeking a bit more privacy, there are also a few private rooms which are all very well decorated.

Private rooms in October Inn.

Private rooms in October Inn.

Food & Drink

A tasty Lijiang meal.

A tasty Lijiang meal.

There are also tons of restaurants scattered around the old town, offering up just about any type of Chinese cuisine imaginable. For a local flavor, you’ve got to try the Lijiang baba (丽江粑粑 – lì jiāng bā bā), a kind of flatbread that goes great for dipping in saucy dishes. Goat meat is also popular here, so don’t be surprised to see a restaurant employee carving one up right outside of the establishment.

Goat meat, anyone?

Goat meat, anyone?

A local coffee shop.

A local coffee shop.

For drinks, there are plenty of teahouses, coffee shops, and bars to choose from. The scene gets a little wild at night, with bars vying for tourists’ RMB by blasting offensively loud music and shining way too many neon lights.

Chinglish

Who wouldn't want to go to the Happy Drunk Bar?

Who wouldn’t want to go to the Happy Drunk Bar?

If you’ve been following the blog for a while, you’re familiar with my love for Chinglish. Having seen quite a few hilarious Chinglish signs around Lijiang, I just had to share them with you…

I <3 Chinglish.

I <3 Chinglish.

Although many decry Lijiang as being too touristy, it’s still a beautiful town with a long history and an interesting culture. As long as you don’t visit on a major holiday and don’t spend all of your time within the old town, you’ll have an enjoyable trip. Plus, as a major transportation hub, Lijiang is a great jumping off point for other adventures in Yunnan province, such as the epic Tiger Leaping Gorge hike. Spend a few days here before heading out to more off-the-beaten path places and enjoy all that this historical town as to offer.

 

 

20 Reasons to Visit Yunnan

Posted on 26. Aug, 2015 by in Uncategorized

There’s been a lot of talk about Yunnan province here on the blog lately, and for good reason – I recently finished up a year of living, working, and traveling there. I’ve been a lot of great places across China in my half a decade here, but none has captured my imagination and inspired me quite as much as Yunnan. Maybe it’s something in the rice noodles, maybe it’s the postcard-worthy landscapes, maybe it’s the fascinating ethnic minority culture, or maybe it’s just the countless epic nights out in Kunming. Whatever it is, Yunnan truly is a special place and one that I would encourage everyone to visit. They say a picture is worth a thousand words. In that case, this post will give you 20,000 reasons to check it out. I’ll leave it up to you to come up with that many words, but in the interest of keeping things short and sweet I’ll give you the pictures and 20 reasons to visit Yunnan:

1. You’ll really feel like you are “South of the Clouds.”

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2. The food is the bomb.

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3. “Just another afternoon in the park” is anything but.

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4. Experience the uniqueness of China’s ethnic minority groups, many of whom live here.

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5. Landscapes like these are the norm.

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6. Visit caves with lazer light shows.

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7. Local village taxis are pretty awesome.

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8. Hike the Tiger Leaping Gorge.

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9. Bike rides are just better here.

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10. Watch a Naxi orchestra jam out.

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11. Camping music festivals are here to stay.

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12. Join in the most epic water fight ever.

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13. Sunsets on Erhai Lake in Dali.

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14. Shangri-la is an actual place here.

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15. Grocery shopping with mom is exciting.

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16. You’ll gain a new appreciation for rice.

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17. This is what a short Saturday walk looks like.

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18. Watch the Chinese version of the Kentucky Derby.

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19. Kunming’s tight-knit live music scene.

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20. Where else can you buy a bag of weed and fresh fruit while looking at these views?

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There are a million more reasons to start planning your trip to Yunnan, but hopefully that’s enough to get the ball rolling. If there isn’t enough time on your China itinerary to squeeze in a visit here, then change it. Trust me – you’ll be glad you did.