Located just 130km from Berlin and with a population of 425,000, Western Pomerania’s capital remains a buzzing and bustling urban center in the region. Its geographical location is a major strength for Szczecin now, but in the past, it caused the city a great deal of trouble. Its proximity to the German border made it a prime target for destruction during WWII, and its sea access made it an attractive target over decades of invasion. Everyone from the Prussians to the Danes to the Swedes had a crack at aggressively taking over the area, and between 967 and 1720, no less than five major shifts in rule and power took place in Szczecin – often called Stettin, its German name – many of them to the city’s economic advantage. By the outbreak of WWII, the (then) Prussian city boasted over 300,000 occupants and was the main port for land-locked Berlin.

But it was the war that really had a major impact on the city, and changed it completely, in ways that are still seen and felt today. The war itself was destructive enough, but the role of the Soviet Red Army cannot be discounted: the army wreaked vengeance on any and all German dwellings in its march westwards to Berlin, and in April of 1945, the army left 60 percent of Stettin in ruins; after their departure, the city had fewer than 6,000 people left.

After WWII, the city was returned to the territory of Poland and was re-christened Szczecin – and the rebuilding began. Sadly, as the hold of Communism strengthened on the city, and the country as a whole, so did the typical Communist architecture known as ‘social realism’. This mainly entails large, boxy blocks of flats made of cement, with small windows, many floors and little beauty.

Szczecin was once considered ‘the Paris of the North’, and appropriately, its city planning is often compared with the French city. This is due to the fact that the heart of the city is a star-shaped square, with diverging avenues, just like it is in Paris. Szczecin’s architectural style is mainly influenced by that of the last half of the 19th century and the early 20th century, so an Art Nouveau vibe can be glimpsed here and there. But what really saves Szczecin from the horrors of social realism architecture is the urban planning of the city’s green spaces: green areas abound with parks and wide avenues and roundabouts flanked by trees. As a result, a stroll along the city streets is a relaxing and refreshing experience for the visitor.

Lovers of organised tours should get themselves on the Red Tourist Route, which is a 7km walking tour around Szczecin. It is marked by red arrows sprayed on the ground and maps of the various sights and points can be picked up at the local tourist office. Once embarked upon, the tour will take you on a circuit of the 42 most important sights and buildings. This is an ideal option for those under time constraints, or those who wish to do as much as possible and do not know where to begin planning.

Szczecin has a strong infrastructure and excellent transport connections – by air, by road and of course by sea. Education is also one of the city’s strengths, with a good example being the Pomeranian Medical University, which sets a high standard in medical training, and where teaching is conducted in English. This makes it especially attractive to students from other parts of Europe, particularly from Scandinavia. This is just one of the many aspects that make Szczecin a multi-lingual, multi-cultural city. Many young professional Polish people who have lived and worked in other parts of Europe, but are looking to return to Poland are also attracted to Szczecin as a place to settle.

Szczecin is indeed a very pleasant place to live, with vast expanses of green space and parks. The layout of the city is often compared to Paris due to its wide avenues and roundabouts. Indeed many people believe Szczecin was built according to designs by Haussman, the civic planner who is associated with rebuilding Paris in the 1800s, however historians have recently proved that this is not the case.

In addition to parks and green spaces, the city has many historical building, including the Pomeranian Duke’s Castle, which is one of the city’s most iconic landmarks. The city also has a wealth of cafes, restaurants, bars and clubs, each offering an individual welcome to locals and visitors alike.

Visit and let us know what you think!

Do następnego razu… (Till next time…)