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Joy of Russian Appetizers Posted by on Oct 15, 2010 in Uncategorized

Last week I went to a «русский пикник» [Russian picnic] here, in Raleigh, North Carolina. It was done “pot-luck” style, so I had to think of something to bring for this «трапеза на лоне природы» [meal in the open air]. As I was thinking up something «вкусненькое» [delicious], yet «быстрое в приготовлении» [quick to make], it occurred to me that it had been a while since «мы беседовали о еде» [we talked about food] here, on the Russian blog. (The picture above is from this picnic and was taken by the very talented Darya who, unlike yours truly, does not forget her camera at home).

Well, I quickly ruled out «выпечка» [baked goods] and «сладкое» [sweets] since my baking skills definitely can stand some improvement (a lot, actually). Although not a «вегетарианка» [female vegetarian; male – «вегетарианец»], I am not big on meat, so I crossed that off my list of options as well. It seemed to me that «закуски» [appetizers or hors d’oeuvres] would be a way to go.

Now, Russian cuisine is famous for its approach to «закуски» [appetizers]. As a matter of fact, every time I come across an article in the English-language media about Russian cooking, it’s really about «холодные закуски» [cold appetizers].

There are just so many of them… Some are «закуски к водке» [vodka chasers], others are more suitable «к пиву» [for (drinking) beer]. But most don’t need any alcohol to be fully appreciated.

Basically, any «холодное блюдо» [cold dish] can be considered a «закуска» [starter, appetizer] and served as such. «Солёные огурцы» [dill pickles], «солёные помидоры» [pickled tomatoes], «квашеная капуста» [sauerkraut], «мочёные яблоки» [brined apples], «вяленая рыба» [dried fish], «копчёный лосось» [smoked salmon], «буженина» [roasted ham] – just reading through this list makes my mouth water. And we’re just getting started here…

Various «паштеты» [pates and spreads], «колбасы» [sausages], «бутерброды» [open-faced sandwiches], «пирожки» [small pies] also come to mind. Oh, the list can go on and on without even mentioning such questionable (to an American taste) «деликатесы» [delicacies] as «селёдка с луком» [herring with onions], «заливное» [aspic] and «солёные арбузы» [pickled watermelons]. (By the way, I firmly believe that Russians know a way to pickle and brine just about any fruit and vegetable)

By personally I think that the most glorious achievement of Russian «закусочный ассортимент» [appetizer assortment] is its salads. The two most well-known Russian salads are «Оливье» [Olivier salad] and «винегрет», known as “Russian salad” or “beet salad” here in the US.

To my mind, «Оливье» is a winter salad best-suited for ringing in a New Year (must be all that mayo in the dressing that reminds me of snow). The beet salad, on the other hand, is perfect for autumn with its bright earthy colors and all the root vegetables that go into it.

And so, my choice was made and I got ready to make «винегрет». The problem with Russian salads is that, while delicious, they are very labor-intensive. You see, all ingredients must be «мелкопорезанные» [finely chopped] or, in some cases, even grated. Plus most ingredients have to be cooked first, usually boiled.

But «винегрет» is very much worth your time. Even though it sounds French, is really a traditional Russian «овощное блюдо» [vegetable dish] that dates back to mid-19th century (at least that’s when the name first appears, the salad itself likely goes back even further).

What I like most about «винегретик» [that’s diminutive of «винегрет»] is its flexibility and the fact that you can simply eyeball the amount of ingredients as long as you keep the basic ratio in mind. So, if you’ve never made «винегрет» before and would like to try it now, here is what you do:

1. «Отварить» [Boil] unpeeled «свёкла» [beetroot], «морковь» [carrots], «картофель» [potatoes]. Better yet, bake them for better flavor (at least the beetroot). You can boil carrots and potatoes in the same pot, but always cook beets separately to avoid premature color mixing. Make sure that the veggies are cool before proceeding further. Oh, as for the ratio – it’s 1 medium beet to 1 medium potato to 1 small to medium carrot.

2. «Очистить» [Peel] prepared (boiled or baked) vegetables and finely chop them.

3. «Порезать» [Chop] 1 head of «репчатый лук» [onion] or 1 bunch of «зелёный лук» [scallions] and some «солёные огурцы» [dill pickles, make sure they are sour and not “bread and butter” style].

4. Now for the fun part also known as “optional ingredients”. You can «добавить» [add] some «квашеная капуста» [sauerkraut], a finely chopped «крутое яйцо» [hard-boiled egg], a bit of «мелкокрошеная» [finely chopped] «сельдь» [herring filet] (in which case you don’t need sauerkraut, but will need more potatoes and onions) or even a shredded «яблоко» [apple].

5. «Приготовить заправку» [Prepare dressing] by mixing «уксус» [white vinegar], «растительное масло» [vegetable oil], «соль» [salt], and «чёрный перец» [black pepper].

 6. Now, mix everything in a giant «миска» [bowl] and taste. Ideally, it should be neither «пресный» [bland] nor «острый» [peppery] nor «солёный» [salty]. There should be a bit of a crunch from «мелкокрошеные солёные огурцы и лук» [finely-chopped dill pickles and onions] without any single ingredient overpowering the rest. The dressing should just coat the veggies without pooling at the bottom of the bowl.

Let it rest for 10-15 minutes while you’re trying to get rid of beet juice stains on your hands. Then move the giant bowl to the center of your «холодный стол» [appetizers table] and surround it with enough small plates of various appetizers that you can no longer see the table top. «Приятного аппетита!» [Bon appétit!]

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Comments:

  1. Minority:

    And what’s about oil? 🙂 Didn’t you add it to salad?

  2. Yelena:

    Yay, Minority, you’re still reading the blog! Awesome! You haven’t commented in a while, so I wasn’t sure if you’re still with us. As for oil – I do have it in the recipe in Step 5 – Preparing dressing.

  3. Minority:

    Yeah, I’m still here. 🙂
    Hah, I guess I jumped over step 5 😀

  4. konst_a:

    А где же водка??? Русский пикник без водки не бывает. К такому количеству еды водки должно быть не мало!!!

    • yelena:

      @konst_a Не, водки не удалось и даже пива. Этот пикник происходил в общественном месте, в парке. А тут в Штатах на это строго – в парках алкоголь нельзя! Кстати, на пляжах тоже.

  5. Wendy:

    What, no salo?? I know that technically it’s Ukrainian, but surely this most memorable of zakusky deserves a mention!

  6. Yelena:

    Wendy, there’s no good salo to be found anywhere in Raleigh, NC. So none was available at the picnic. But boy, you’re right – I totally forgot to include it in the post.